What is a Russian manicure, and is it safe?

If you have scrolled nail pictures on Instagram, you have probably seen the words “Russian manicure” under the neatest sets. I was trained by a European technician and work in the same way, so every treatment I do has that finish. Here is what it actually involves.

It is all about the cuticle area

A Russian manicure is a dry manicure. Instead of soaking your fingers, I use an electric file with small, fine bits and a few hand tools to lift and tidy the dead skin around the base of the nail. The aim is a clean, crisp edge where the nail meets the skin.

That clean edge is the point. It means BIAB, hard gel or gel colour can be placed very close to the cuticle line, so the finish looks like it grew there. As your nails grow, there is less of a visible gap, and the set looks tidy for longer.

Is it safe?

In trained hands, yes. The e-file works on dead skin and the surface around the nail, not on living skin, and it is used at a gentle speed. You should feel a light buzzing and a little warmth, never pain. If anything feels sore, say so and I’ll stop and adjust. It is your hand, and you should always feel comfortable.

What makes it safe is care and practice: the right bit for the job, the right speed and taking your time. That is also why a Russian-style manicure takes a little longer than a quick file and paint.

Why it helps your nails last

• Product sticks better to a clean nail plate, so lifting is less likely.
• Colour sits right up to the cuticle, so regrowth is less obvious.
• Tidy cuticles are less likely to snag and tear between appointments.

Looking after your cuticles at home

A drop of cuticle oil every day, rubbed in around the base of each nail, keeps the skin soft and the finish looking fresh. It is the single best thing you can do between visits.

A Russian-style manicure comes with every treatment on my treatments and prices page, or you can book it on its own with gel colour.